By Susie Timm, Head Cheese
I love surprises. Ok scratch that. I really hate surprises. EXCEPT when they come in the form of food or beverage.
This past weekend I was a guest on “In the Kitchen with Jan D’Atri” and she was broadcasting live from the Musical Instrument Museum.
Me & Jan
I watched the MIM being built over the past year or so, but this was my first opportunity to see it first hand.
I arrived for the broadcast to The Cafe inside of the museum and was almost immediately asked to sample some creations from Executive Chef Edward Farrow.
Farrow and Jan at the Cafe at MIM
It was love at first bite. I was astounded by the quality, taste and use of fresh and local ingredients in everything I sampled. From Pheasant to cookies to chips–the flavors were intense!
I was so inspired that I sent a list of questions to Farrow to figure out “Who is this guy?” and “How come I haven’t been here before?!”
So foodie world, meet Edward Farrow. And trust me on this: it’s worth a trip to the MIM for lunch alone…
The Girl: Tell me about your background in culinary? Where have you worked, did you go to culinary school etc?
Farrow: I started out in this business like many…in the dish room. I was attending The University of San Diego, and a friend (she was a student supervisor) needed help during finals in the school’s cafeteria. As I was finished with finals, I agreed. Best or worst decision I ever made. I never left the kitchen, much to my parents dismay (I was a very well educated dishwasher). After I graduated, I continued to work as a dishwasher. I sort of enjoyed it. By total blind dumb luck, I walked into a La Jolla Fish House moments after INS raided the place (This was 1986). Just going in for a beer, I was hired on the spot, and on the line moments later with ZERO cooking experience!?!?! I eventually figured it out. The Chef eventually recommended I go to Culinary school, The CIA in NY, so I did. I have worked in NYC, Washington DC, Phoenix, Vegas, Rural Virginia, Boston. My mentors and one’s I am inspired by the most are Christopher Gross(Phx), Gerard Pangaud (D.C), David Burke (NYC), and Alex Stratta (when he was here at Mary Elaine’s, Phoenician). All passionate, inspiring, Encyclopedic knowledge, and all willing to share and pass it on. Cooking is about sharing and love. I have no patience for ones who have “secrets”
The Girl: Why the emphasis on local ingredients at Bon Appetit?
Farrow: I love the local angle for several reasons. Food tastes better, less of a carbon footprint, its “in season” (which usually means more abundant, tastier, and cheaper), and most of all, the growers, ranchers, etc… are usually “very interesting characters” who are equally as passionate about what they do as I am about what I do. It also keeps my team “challenged” and they cannot get in a “rut”. No sleepwalking robots in one of my kitchens.
The Girl: Have you always used so many local ingredients? Where do you seek out the growers?
Farrow: I have always tried to use as much Local as possible within the confines of the operation and location. In Boston, the summer was an absolute bounty, the winter …a much different story…a cold wasteland of Florida produce. I find growers the old fashioned way, hard work. Get in my car a drive, and unfortunately, my family gets dragged along. A lot of reading, phone calls, talking to other growers, etc…Usually a “need” produces the best results. We are right now spending a lot of time finding local chickens, in some volume, that are actually raised here in Arizona. Summers just to hot. Tough for ranchers to sell fresh. Slim pickens. If you know of anyone…….
The Girl: What is your favorite type of meat to cook and what preparation?
Farrow: I know it is not “meat”, but fish has always peaked my interest. Growing up in AZ, we never had fresh fish. So when I finally realized such a thing existed……..
As far as meat goes, 2 extremes. Beef steaks on the grill…quick, very satisfying, and sort of animalistic, get your hands dirty……or something SLOW braised. Both pair so fabulously with wine……….For me, the bad thing about grilling at home, my wife will hardly let me near our grill. It is her baby. I don’t mind, she is a FANTASTIC cook, so I just step aside………..
The Girl: What makes your potato chips so delicious? (they are a FAVE of D’Atri)
The Chips that dreams are made of
Farrow: The chips are pretty simple….potatoes, oil, sea salt, and make them daily….no funky stuff. A lot of labor goes into them. They cannot be rushed. We purchase top potatoes, use ONLY Perry Rea’s Queen Creek Olive Mill’s Expeller Pressed Trans Fat Free Canola Oil, French Sea Salt, and a lot of time, care, and love. I try them every day. Unfortunately for my team, sometimes we just start over after making a batch. Time and money wasted, but we redo, and the results are enjoyed by our guests.
Thanks Edward for a peek into your world. I look forward to experiencing all the MIM has to offer and of course, making sure I am there in time for lunch!
BONUS!
Here’s a recipe for the dish I sampled:
Latin Braised Pheasant
Chef Edward Farrow
3 whole pheasant, 2.5-3# each
1 whole Chicken, 3# each
1 Turkey Leg
2 quarts Unpasteurized, Unfiltered Arizona Apple Cider
1 bottle GOOD white wine
2 Quarts Light Chicken Stock
2 Quarts Dark Chicken Stock
4 cups diced Onions
4 cups diced Celery
4 cups diced Carrots
4 cups diced Leeks, white only
½ cup Minced Garlic
1 filet Salt Cured Anchovy, minced fine
2 each Poblano Chile, Roasted, Peeled, No Seeds, Diced
2 each Anaheim Chile, Roasted, Peeled, No Seeds, Diced
Sachet of: Dried Chiles, Bay Leaf, Peppercorn, Garlic, 1 lemon split
- Season all birds with salt, pepper, and QCOM (Queen Creek Olive Mill) EVOO.
- Roast at 300 degrees oven until all birds are cooked.
- Remove birds from pan, and save all juices and fat.
- Remove skin from birds. Discard, or make “cracklings” later.
- Remove all meat from the bones and shred. Be sure there is no cartilage or bones amongst the meat.
- Take all bones, cartilage, and scrap from birds and place into a pot. Cover with water, bring to simmer. Cook for 2 hours. Add both chicken stocks. Simmer 2 more hours. Strain.
- Reduce to 2 quarts.
- In large, flat rondo, sweat onions, celery, carrots, and leeks until translucent. Add garlic, anchovy, chilies, and sachet. Continue to sauté until slight caramelization is achieved.
- Add shredded poultry and continue to sauté until meat is “seared”.
10. Deglaze with Cider and Wine. Reduce liquid to 2 cups.
11. Add your bird stock, and simmer slowly until the stock reduces so it just barely is covering meat and still moist.
12. Season to taste
13. Serve over Braised Pinto Beans, and garnish with locally grown, grilled eggplant, and roasted apples. Finish with some sea salt, Thyme Leaves, and QCOM EVOO
Garnish
Grilled Eggplant Discs…EVOO, Thyme Leaves, Salt, Pepper
Roasted Local Apple Wedges
Slow Braised Local Pinto Beans (Water, Salt, Heavy Sachet)
Fresh Thyme Leaves
Finishing Sea Salt
QCOM EVOO to finish
