By Susie Timm, Head Cheese
I haven’t been this excited to write about a new restaurant in a long, long time.
I am however, prepared to make some controversial comparisons in this post, so hold on to your hats ladies and gents.
I was invited to check out the new and improved Saguaro Hotel and with it Jose Garces Southwesten iteration of “Old Town Whiskey,” (called Village Whiskey in Philly).
I arrived at the hotel with no real expectations. My previous visits to this location typically involved watching young, nubile blondes fall stumbling drunk down the front stairs.
I was sincerely hoping the JDV Hotel group who remade the hotel were planning to attract a new demographic.
Upon arrival, I settled into the most colorful hotel lobby in the Valley of the Sun and perhaps in all the land. It is a kaleidoscope of desert colors. Stunning really.
The marketing team calmed many of my fears as they informed me that indeed, The Saguaro seeks to attract boutique, luxury hotel lovers, locals and will not in fact be featuring any stuffed livestock in their front lobby.
My relief was palpable.
After a beautiful and scenic tour of the grounds, I noted the swimming pool might just be the most awesome pool in Scottsdale. Bright, lush and frankly, those pink beach towels are worth a trip all on their own.
The Saguaro has contracted Garces to maintain all its food and beverage outlets on the property. Currently exists his coffee bar and Old Town Whiskey. Distrito is opening in December–I can’t wait to try it.
I returned the next day to dine at Old Town Whiskey with a Scottsdale resident and dear friend.
I had heard rumors of some amazing pickled tomatoes and decided to give those a try right off the bat.
The pickled tomatoes were unlike anything I have ever tasted. Sour, briney and delicately sweet. I ate them atop crostini with an olive tapanade and ricotta cheese. I can conjure up the flavor of this taste explosion and it’s making me hungry all over again. Pair that with one of hundreds of whiskey on the menu, and let’s call that a very happy hour.
My lunch date and I decided to share a lobster roll, fried chicken and cheese fries.
I had recently experienced lobster roll heaven in Minneapolis (yes, you read that correctly) and so I was skeptical that Garces lobster roll in Scottsdale would live up to the one I had in the north woods.
Served on a buttery, crunchy roll, the lobster was lightly combined with a lemon aioli, bacon marmalade and avocado. Here’s where I get controversial–when I was a kid in Wisconsin, it was a treat to head out to Fuddrucker’s for a burger and fries. I have never eaten a burger bun or roll that I enjoyed quite as much as one from Fuddrucker’s. Until now. Somehow Garces has captured the exact sweetness, crunch and buttery goodness of my youth. It was enough to nearly spring tears to my eyes.
Next, the buttermilk fried chicken with smoked cheddar bacon biscuit, greens and potatoes arrived. The chicken was crispy, seasoned just right and very satisfying.
The banner moment of our meal however, was the duck fat fries served with san-tan cheddar sauce. Seriously. These fries should potentially be inducted into some sort of food hall of fame. The fries at Old Town Whiskey also bring me back to my youth–and again with Fuddrucker’s! I think it was the cheese sauce that brought home the taste memory.
The fries at Fuddrucker’s were not nearly as tasty as the ones Garces has perfected, but the nostalgia was greatly appreciated.
Now please, don’t go off the food elitist deep end here and claim that I am comparing Chef Garces to a two-bit burger chain restaurant that had its hay day in the 80s. I am merely stating how much I enjoy anything that reminds me of my very happy and blessed childhood.
Overall I was incredibly impressed with Old Town Whiskey and The Saguaro hotel. Both are truly original and I urge you to try those fries. As soon as humanly possible.